Sunday, September 6, 2015

When did the idea for the hole in a doughnut, or bagel, occur?

Researching and writing history is akin to working a crossword puzzle or sleuthing a murder mystery. Clues are provided, each of which have to be tracked down and further researched.

In answer to the question in my title, no one really knows, nor ever will, but we can speculate.

Recently, beginning to figure out the history of the bagel, I began reading Maria Balinska's "The Bagel". In talking about ring-shaped baked goods of the past she mentioned the "twice-baked circular buccellatum" which was a staple of the Roman Centurions. There are so many clues in those few words. She had already mentioned that the buccellatum had a hole in their center - and I have recently been chasing the origins of the doughnut (and bagel) holes. Twice-baked or course could be a choux pastry, which is the foundation dough for many delicate and elegant pastries, including eclairs, beignets and fritters. Circular, just adds to the mental image of a doughnut or a bagel.

So, looking through my reference histories and using google to browse the internet, I ended up learning about the kaak, or kahk, depending on the source, the Arabic word for a pastry popular in Egypt and throughout the middle East - it is part of Christmas and Easter celebrations of the Coptic Christians, and Muslims enjoy it when they celebrate the end of Ramadan. However, its roots go back to the days of the Pharoahs, the XVIIIth dynasty to be more exact. Archaeologists have found tomb paintings which depict the making of a pastry, using a choux-like dough which resembles today's kaak.

I have already been attuned to another archaeologist who found remains in the Oklahoma panhandle of acorn cakes shaped as rings, like our modern day doughnut. While the Oklahoma acorn cakes would not be in the lineage of today's doughnut or bagel, the kaak could be. I'm working with the museum which houses the collection from the digs to get a better handle on the dating of the acorn cakes find.

One of my next steps is to try to locate those tomb pictures of the Egyptian pastry, as well as learn more about the buccellatum and the kaak.

I'm still asking questions and seeking answers. To learn of my results, read my book tracing the history of Breakfast recipes. No, its not yet in print, but I have begun submitting it to publishers. I am confident that a publisher will see the merit in my work and want to include it as part of their publishing catalog. When one does so, I'll let you know here. Until then, its back to my research and writing. I'll drop more tales of the trails I'm chasing and exploring as I continue to learn and record recipe histories.

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